Juan José Thuemme: The Flavor Alchemist

Juan José Thuemme
Juan José Thuemme

Quest to Preserve Authentic Mexican Tastes in a Changing World!

“Flavor is not just about taste; it is about evoking memories and creating experiences,” says Juan José Thuemme, Global Flavorist at Etadar By Deiman. With nearly five decades of experience under his belt, he has become a true maestro in the art of flavor creation.

With a career spanning nearly 5 decades, Juan has become a true maestro in the art and science of flavor creation. As the Senior Creative Flavorist at Etadar By Deiman, he has been instrumental in developing nature-identical flavors and innovative flavor systems that have revolutionized the industry.

His passion for authentic Mexican flavors has been a driving force throughout his career. Mexican cuisine, with its complex and vibrant tastes, has always been at the forefront of his work. Preserving and recreating these authentic flavors has become increasingly challenging in our globalized world, making Thuemme’s expertise more valuable than ever.

One of his crowning achievements has been the establishment of the ‘Native Flavors’ school, a pioneering institution dedicated to educating people about Mexican flavors and their applications worldwide. This initiative has not only helped preserve traditional tastes but has also introduced these unique flavors to a global audience.

The veteran flavorist has witnessed significant changes in the industry over the years, particularly with the advent of new technologies and the rising demand for plant-based options. Juan and his team at Etadar By Deiman are constantly adapting and innovating, facing the challenge of creating authentic, complex flavors using novel ingredients and techniques.

As he looks to the future, he remains optimistic about the industry’s potential. There’s still much to explore in the world of flavors, and his goal is to continue pushing boundaries while honoring traditional tastes. With his wealth of experience and unwavering passion, Juan continues to direct the future of flavor, one innovative creation at a time.

Let us explore his journey:

A Flavorist’s Journey

Juan Thuemme, a chemical and food engineer, began his career in 1973 after completing his master’s degree in food development. His passion for the industry was ignited when he started creating Mexican-inspired foods for a U.S. company in Texas, where he was impressed by the importance of flavors in the craft of food.

This experience led him to join IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) as a junior flavorist, based in Mexico. Over the next several decades, Thuemme honed his skills, working for IFF in various locations, including New York, New Jersey, Holland, and France.

Etadar: Expanding Flavor Horizons

After working at IFF for 38 years, Juan decided to join Etadar, a Mexican flavor company, in 2014 to leverage his extensive expertise and help the company grow. At Etadar, he has been responsible for generating a wide range of flavors, from processed bases to reactions and culinary flavors, with a particular focus on exploring the native flavors of Mexico.

His goal is to investigate more flavor categories to expand Etadar’s business opportunities and meet the company’s needs.

Innovative Flavor Exploration

His passion lies in creating innovative flavor profiles inspired by Mexico’s rich culinary heritage. He has developed new molecules through the “maillarization” of native cocoa and vanilla beans from Mexico. He has also isolated toasted pyrazines from reactions between various chili peppers and amino acids found in Mexican cuisine.

Preserving Mexico’s Culinary Heritage: The Story of “Native Flavors”

Juan’s concept of “native flavors” stems from his deep exploration of Mexico’s rich culinary history. He has collected rare and endangered products, such as diverse corn varieties and traditional herbs, to create extracts and flavors that have never been studied before.

He aims to celebrate the unique flavors found in the traditions of the Aztecs, Zapotecs, and Olmecs, including delicious treats and fruits that have been overlooked.

By extracting and showcasing these “native flavors of Mexico,” he seeks to preserve the country’s culinary heritage and share it with the world.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation in Flavor Development

As a global flavorist, Juan balances honoring traditional flavors with creating innovative and trend-setting profiles. With over 40 years of experience, he has developed 30,000 flavors from fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, and more.

He continuously improves existing flavors by adding new molecules to the market. However, his creativity is inspired by the experiences of culinary chefs, such as the French chef Ramsay’s World Cup dessert flavor, which combines flan, custard, and rose petals.

He develops flavors by integrating each step of the product process, ensuring a unique and innovative flavor profile that meets market demands.

Overcoming Challenges in Flavor Innovation

As a flavorist in Mexico, Juan faces the challenge of high import costs and delivery delays. To overcome this, he creates chemical and umami replacers to develop savory flavors. He also produces expensive molecules in the laboratory through reactions and isolations to replace costly ingredients.

Despite these obstacles, he remains dedicated to crafting innovative flavors, experimenting with basic chemical extracts and reactive compounds to create more complex and novel flavor profiles. His perseverance and adaptability allow him to continuously push the boundaries of flavor development, even in the face of economic constraints.

Foundation of Flavor Development

Juan’s background in biochemistry and food science has significantly influenced his approach to flavor development. By studying biological cycles and biochemical pathways, he has gained a deep understanding of how flavor molecules appear in fruits and how they are impacted by the ripening process.

He also examines the biotransformation that occurs during each reaction to understand its effect on flavor. Additionally, he has studied biofermentation in foods, particularly Mexican alcoholic beverages like tequila and mezcal.

As a professor of food technology at a polytechnic institute, he guides students in researching food extracts and serves as an advisor for numerous studies on food and flavors.

Crafting Flavors from Scratch

Juan’s creative process for developing new flavors from scratch begins with an intuitive search through his extensive library to find similar flavor profiles. He then distills the product, herb, fruit, meat, or processed food using a vacuum extraction system to avoid overheating, and sends the extract to the university for GLC chromatography analysis to ensure the integrity of the initial ingredients.

Next, he conducts an exhaustive study of the raw materials and their natural chemistry, analyzing the components to see what he can work with. He may also obtain extracts of the fruits or materials to complement the flavor he is trying to create.

A Taste of Tradition

Juan’s most memorable and unique flavor combinations include:

  • Chocolate Chile Chipotle Pepper: Inspired by Aztec, Mixtec, and Zapotec traditions, this flavor resembles the way ancestors celebrated chocolate beverages.
  • Choco Tacos: Inspired by the back streets of California and Mexico, this flavor combines chocolate, peanuts, and tacos, creating a delightful taste.
  • Death Flower: Made with cempasuchil (Flor de los Muertos), this flavor is perfect for the Day of the Dead celebration on November 2nd.
  • Native Flavors of Mexican History: These flavors celebrate the rich culinary heritage of Mexico, preserving traditional tastes for future generations.

Staying Ahead of Flavor Trends

Juan stays on top of emerging flavor trends and consumer preferences by attending festivals like Flavor Summit and Festive Day Wilde, where he studies innovative chef developments to match a flavor.

He also matches backstreet flavors developed in Mexico, such as berry with pepper, and creates new mixes, duplicating these trends to afford new flavors.

Advice for Aspiring Flavorists

As a seasoned flavorist, Juan advises whoever is interested in pursuing this career to focus on creativity and the study of raw materials.

Developing new flavor compounds often involves exploring the reactions between carbohydrates and amino acids found in the products you aim to create.

This process, which he calls “maillarization,” requires dedication to modifying various chemicals until you arrive at a convincing flavor profile. Perseverance and a commitment to the creative formulation process are essential for success as a flavorist.

Future of Flavor

In his opinion, the future of the flavor industry lies in creating flavors that extend the food process with alternative sources of protein and cover the taste.

This will open up numerous opportunities for plant-based products, including those in the dairy and meat industries.

Additionally, there will be continuous innovation and growth in processed bases, meat, and poultry products, offering new and exciting flavors to consumers.

Vision of a Global Flavorist for the Future of Flavor

As a global flavorist, he believes it’s important to have a comprehensive understanding of the entire food production process. When developing a new flavor, one must consider the mechanisms involved in the culinary preparation, including the cooking temperatures and their impact on the final product.

If natural ingredients are used, it’s crucial to examine how factors like fruit ripeness can affect the flavor profile. Similarly, for dairy products, patience is required to properly assess the creaminess.

Thorough testing and analysis, such as GLC chromatography, are essential to ensuring the integrity of the flavor compounds. This holistic approach allows him to create flavors that truly capture the essence of the culinary experience.